Guides / Hallmarks / The story of the hallmark
The story of the hallmark
For more than 700 years, a few tiny marks struck into silver and gold have promised one thing: the metal is what it claims to be. Here is where they came from, how to read them, and when the law says a piece doesn't need one.
- 1300The oldest mark, the leopard's head
- 4Assay offices in the UK today
- 3Marks the law requires
Illustration created for this guide
A tavern off the Strand
In 1773, so the story goes, two delegations of silversmiths arrived in London from Sheffield and Birmingham. Both had come to ask Parliament for the same thing: an assay office of their own, so that their candlesticks and coffee pots no longer had to travel to a distant city to be tested and marked. And both, as it happened, were lodging at the same inn, the Crown and Anchor, just off the Strand.
The petitions succeeded, and an Act of Parliament gave each town its office that year. When it came to choosing their marks, the legend says the matter was settled over the inn's sign. Sheffield took the crown. Birmingham took the anchor.
Is any of it true? The Sheffield Assay Office, which knows the story better than anyone, says the inn certainly existed, but whether there is any truth in the tale is unknown. What is certain is that the marks stuck. Birmingham's anchor is still struck today. Sheffield's crown lasted two centuries, until a new law came into force in 1975 and replaced it with the rose that Sheffield had been using on gold since 1904.
Seven centuries of promises
Precious metal has always invited a little creative arithmetic. Pure silver is too soft to make anything useful, so it is mixed with other metals, usually copper, and the temptation to mix in rather more copper than the customer is paying for is as old as the trade itself. Hallmarking was the answer: an independent test, and a mark to prove it had been passed. It is often described as one of the oldest forms of consumer protection in the world, and the dates bear that out.
| Year | What happened |
|---|---|
| 1238 | Henry III orders the City of London to choose six goldsmiths to oversee the craft. |
| 1300 | Edward I rules that silver must be of sterling standard. The leopard's head mark is introduced, and the "Guardians of the craft" test work from shop to shop. |
| 1363 | A maker's mark becomes compulsory alongside the leopard's head. |
| 1478 | Goldsmiths' Hall in London becomes a permanent assay office, and the date letter is introduced. The word "hallmark" probably comes from here. |
| 1544 | The lion passant first appears. No official record explains why. |
| 1697 | The silver standard is raised to 95.84% pure, marked with a figure of Britannia. Sterling is allowed again from 1720. |
| 1773 | Sheffield and Birmingham open their own assay offices. |
| 1784 to 1890 | A sovereign's head is struck to show that tax on the piece has been paid. |
| 1975 | The Hallmarking Act 1973 comes into force, bringing all four offices under one law. The UK joins the International Convention on Hallmarking. |
| 1999 | The date letter becomes optional, and new, lower standards of gold, silver and platinum are recognised. |
Notice how little of it has been undone. The leopard's head that Edward I introduced still marks London's work today, more than seven centuries later.
What happens at an assay office
"Assay" simply means test. For centuries the test was done by fire. The assayer scraped a tiny sample from the piece, weighed it, wrapped it in lead and heated it in a small porous cup made of bone ash, called a cupel. The lead and the base metals soaked away into the cup, leaving a bead of precious metal behind. Weigh the bead, compare it with the sample, and the arithmetic tells you exactly how pure the silver is.
Only when a piece passed was it struck with the office's punches, by hand, with a hammer. Fire assay is still the reference method for gold and silver, though modern offices also use instruments that read the metal without harming it, and since 1997 Sheffield has marked pieces too delicate for a hammer with a laser instead.
How to read a modern hallmark
A British hallmark is read from left to right, and on a modern piece it is shorter than you might expect. The law requires three marks. Everything else is optional.
- The sponsor's mark. The registered initials of the person or company that sent the piece for hallmarking, inside a shaped outline. It used to be called the maker's mark, though it never had to be the actual maker.
- The fineness mark. The purity of the metal in parts per thousand. 925 means 925 parts in every 1,000 are pure silver, which is sterling.
- The assay office mark. Which of the four offices tested the piece.
After those, a piece may carry a date letter, showing the year it was marked, which has been optional since 1999. It may also carry a traditional symbol that repeats the fineness in picture form, such as the lion passant for sterling silver. Every so often there are commemorative marks too: a special mark was offered for the Millennium in 1999 and 2000.
The four assay offices
There are four assay offices in the UK today, and each has its own mark.
| Office | Mark | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| London | Leopard's head | The original mark of 1300, struck at Goldsmiths' Hall. |
| Birmingham | Anchor | Opened in 1773, the same year as Sheffield. |
| Sheffield | Rose | A crown on silver from 1773 until 1975; the rose was already in use on gold from 1904. |
| Edinburgh | Castle | A castle with three towers. |
What the numbers mean
Modern fineness marks use parts per thousand, which makes them easy to compare across metals. A gold piece marked 750 is 750 parts pure gold in every 1,000, the same thing a jeweller would call 18 carat.
| Metal | Fineness marks | What you might hear it called |
|---|---|---|
| Silver | 800, 925, 958, 999 | 925 is sterling; 958 is Britannia silver |
| Gold | 375, 585, 750, 916, 990, 999 | 9, 14, 18 and 22 carat; 999 is 24 carat |
| Platinum | 850, 900, 950, 999 | 950 is the usual standard for jewellery |
| Palladium | 500, 950, 999 | 950 is the usual standard for jewellery |
When a hallmark isn't needed
Here is the part that surprises people. In the UK, a piece can only be described as silver, gold, platinum or palladium if it has been hallmarked, unless it weighs less than a set amount. Below that weight, no hallmark is needed at all.
| Metal | Exempt if it weighs less than |
|---|---|
| Silver | 7.78 g |
| Gold | 1 g |
| Palladium | 1 g |
| Platinum | 0.5 g |
So a delicate silver pendant or a fine chain can be perfectly genuine, and perfectly legal, without a single mark on it. The weight counts the precious metal only, not any stones.
Shops that sell precious metal have a duty of their own: they must display a Dealer's Notice, approved by the British Hallmarking Council, explaining the marks to customers. Online sellers are expected to show it on their websites.
Hallmarks abroad
Since 1975 the UK has belonged to the International Convention on Hallmarking. Pieces struck with the Convention's Common Control Mark in one member country are accepted in the others without being tested again, which is why you may find unfamiliar marks on jewellery bought on the Continent. Not every country hallmarks at all, so a missing mark on a piece bought abroad is not, by itself, a reason for suspicion.
Small marks, long memories
Turn over an old silver spoon and you are holding a document. The marks will tell you who sent it to be tested, which office tested it, how pure it is and, very often, the year it was made, all in a strip smaller than a fingernail. Few things we buy carry their history so plainly.
And the tavern? Birmingham's anchor is still struck every working day. Sheffield's crown has gone, but the rose that replaced it is no less proud. Whether the delegations of 1773 really did settle their marks over a pint, the Crown and Anchor's sign lives on in a few millimetres of silver.
Good to know
What does 925 mean on silver?
It means 925 parts in every 1,000 are pure silver, which is the sterling standard. The rest is usually copper, which makes the silver hard enough to wear.
Is hallmarking compulsory in the UK?
Yes, for anything described as silver, gold, platinum or palladium, unless it weighs less than the exemption weight: 7.78 g for silver, 1 g for gold and palladium, and 0.5 g for platinum.
Why doesn't my silver necklace have a hallmark?
Most likely because it weighs less than 7.78 g, so the law doesn't require one. Many fine chains and small pendants fall under that weight.
How can I tell which assay office marked a piece?
Look for the office's symbol: a leopard's head for London, an anchor for Birmingham, a rose for Sheffield (a crown on older Sheffield silver) and a castle for Edinburgh.
What is a date letter, and is it still used?
A letter that changes each year, in a set style, so the year of marking can be looked up. It was introduced in 1478 and has been optional since 1999, though many pieces still carry one.
Is gold-plated jewellery hallmarked?
A plated piece is hallmarked for the precious metal underneath it, if there is any. Gold-plated sterling silver can be hallmarked as silver. Gold plating over a base metal such as brass or steel can't be hallmarked.



